Alex Megos Opening Tuareg Blanco 5.15b/c
Alex Megos recently made the first ascent of Tuareg Blanco in Margalef, Spain. Located at the Racó de les Espadelles crag, the line was bolted by Adrien Boulon in 2014, and since then has become a longstanding open project. Megos spent a total of 15 days over two trips to unlock the climb. He just released a film about his first ascent, which you can watch below.
“I came to Margalef with this one route in mind,” said Megos on Instagram. “I didn’t really know if it was possible in the amount of time I had, but I wanted to give it everything. Almost 3 weeks later and 11 days of trying (plus 4 days some years ago) I managed to clip the chains of this legendary project. Legendary for me at least. It was mostly only tried by [Ramon Julian] which didn’t make it more appealing. A little more info (and a video) will follow. Looking forward to hearing what other people think about the grade. Thank you to all the people who supported me on this journey.”
With Tuareg Blanco, Megos starts 2025 off strong. He had an incredible 2024, repeating Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b and Adam Ondra’s Change 5.15b/c and Move 5.15b/c, while also competing at the Paris Olympics. In the autumn, he battled a potential 5.15d project in a recent trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. He made good progress but was unable to finish up the climb, dealing with some serious skin issues.
The day after making the FA Tuareg Blanco 5.15b/c, Megos flashed Mr. Big 5.14d. Mr. Big was established by British climber Tom Bolger in early 2021. The climb has seen several repeats over the past four years, and it appears to be low in the grade. Piotr Schab and Vojta Trojan called it soft for the grade, while Jorge Díaz-Rullo suggested 5.14c. Upon reflecting on the grade, Megos also suggested 5.14c for the route.
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Alex Megos’ first ascent of Tuareg Blanco 5.15b/c
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